Apr 05 2007
My Run-In With the Japanese Police
I like to think I’m a pretty upstanding citizen for the most part. I do my part to contribute to society, and look out for my fellow man (be they Japanese or foreign). However if you live in Japan long enough, you’re eventually going to run into the police. It’s a fact of living here.
Put simply, I don’t have the highest opinion of Japanese police. Almost every policeman I’ve ever met or seen is lazy, stupid, arrogant and high on power. The most useful function I’ve ever seen them serve is giving directions to Tokyo denizens who have momentarily lost their way. One of the worst functions I’ve seen them performing is harassing random people and cars, stopping them and demanding to see personal identification or prove their vehicle/bicycle is theirs.
Don’t get me wrong. I’m from Australia, and I have a huge amount of respect for the men and women who put themselves in the line of fire to protect everyone else. Every experience I’ve had with Australian police has either been positive, or at the least, professional. Case in point, one of my best friends is a firefighter in Australia, and I have a huge amount of respect for him.
Compare this attitude to Japanese Police - they do as little as possible, are often overweight, harass people for stupid petty crimes or for no reason other than a brief power “high”, and are useless in a real emergency. I have watched them stand by idly, unwilling to get involved in a serious conflict between aYakuza and a taxi driver. Many of my friends have been stopped and demanded to show their passport to prove they’re not an illegal alien. I have watched them wait until a person has walked away from their parked before before running over and waving over a tow-truck to remove the car - which their unwitting owners can have returned to them at a costly fee.
They will even try to entrap you - a friend had told me about an incident where a sleek Skyline car pulled up next to her at the lights. She looked over, and made eye contact. The Skyline revved it’s engines. This girl, being something of a crazy petrol head(rare for a Japanese..!) revved her engine back. They ‘revved off’, for about 30 seconds until the light turned green, and she slammed into first, spun the wheels, and took off. She hadn’t gone 100 meters when the Skyline driver had pulled out a siren and a light, affixed it to the roof, and called out “PULL OVER NOW” on a loudspeaker. Bastards. Just, bastards.
For these reasons and many more, I try to avoid the police. Unfortunately, my strategy failed one fateful day two years ago.
I was driving my scooter, and my girlfriend was on the back. We were going through a Shoutengai, a crowded shopping street. I am a very safe driver, and I was concentrating on avoiding people. I made a right turn, and slowly accelerated with a controlled twist of my wrist. I was going very slowly, about 20 km an hour. I drove slowly past a “Koban”, which is like a Japanese Police box. About 5 seconds later, I heard :
“OOOOIII TOMARINSASAIIII!” (Hey!! Stop!!)
I check my mirrors and see a fat Japanese Policeman chasing after me, folds of face fat rolling angrily as he awkwardly chases my slow scooter. I stop, and he quickly catches up. I turn, and look at him. He’s winding up for some kind of statement, and then he sees my white face. He pauses, momentarily confused.
“Hello!” I say, brightly in English, capitalising on catching him off guard.
“STOPPU!” He says.
“I’m stopped already,” I reply.
“Come off!” He says loudly.
“Come off?” I question innocently.
My mind flashes back to many of my friends and their experiences with Japanese cops and motorbikes. “NEVER SPEAK JAPANESE! It’s a pain in the ass for them to fill out all the paperwork to book someone on an international license. Just be friendly, and happy, and likable, and act like you don’t speak Japanese. If you make it hard for them, but look like you’re trying to be co-operative, they’ll let you go” They all told me.
“Come off!!!” He says, louder, pointing at the ground.
“Sure!” I say with a smile. My girlfriend hops off, and I dismount, and put the scooter on the stand.
“SHOW TO ME LICENSE.” He says, loudly and gruffly.
“Sure, no problem!” I say with a big smile. I open the seat of my scooter, and start flipping through the documents. “Can I ask why I was stopped?” I said.
“LICENSE.” Came the reply.
I frowned slightly, and continued fishing around. First I gave him my Australian license. He looks at it, and squints his eyes.
“Auusss..treea?” He awkwardly reads.
“Australia!” I say proudly.
He looks at me with disgust. “INTERNATIONAL LICENSE!” He says.
“Sure,” I say jovially, as I turn back to find my international license. I look through all the documents, and it’s not there. Odd. I keep looking. I check my pockets, the front storage area, between the pages of the magazines in the scooter seat. After 3 minutes of frantic fumbling, I suddenly realise I left it at home. Oh, shit. Shit, shit, shit.
“Um,” I began.
His face scrunched into a ball, his beady eyes shrinking into his skull, as his frown protruded awkwardly from his face. Tough crowd, I thought.
“COME HERE.” He waved me over to the koban. Dammit. I wheeled my scooter around, and walked alongside him.
“PARKING HERE.” He gestured to the side of the koban. I obediently followed his command, and parked my scooter.
“COME IN. SIT.” he pointed at an uncomfortable looking foldout chair.
I slowly sat, and my girlfriend sat down next to me.
“You. You’re Japanese right?” The fat policeman addressed my girlfriend.
“I… um…. not.. speaking Japanese too good… born in America….!” my girlfriend replied in pidgin Japanese. Of course, she was a native Japanese speaker. Good girl.
The fat policeman scowled.
“I’m sorry,” I say with a genial smile on my face. “I must have done something wrong. Can you show me what it is? I’m so sorry to cause you trouble,” you stupid fat arrogantasshat , why don’t you do something useful with your time, like stop crime, or give someone directions, you piece of shit, “I wouldn’t want to cause you any more problems.”
“YOU SPEAK JAPANESE?” He yelled.
“I…. doing… to study.. Japanese… very hard… now!” I responded with a broad grin and mock pride, in deliberately pidgin Japanese.
“Come here.” He said in Japanese, and walked outside. I motioned for my girlfriend to stay seated.
“See this over here? This is a one way street. You turned into a one way street. See the sign there? Can you see it?” He punctuated his angry Japanese by pointing at a one-way sign obscured by a street lamp.
“Gomennasai, wakarimasen!” (I’m sorry, I don’t understand).
He threw up his arms, and walked back to the Koban, expecting me to follow. I momentarily considered leaving my girlfriend and making a run for it, but I realised they could track me down using the scooter numberplate, and my girlfriends wrath would be worse than the police. Ireluctantly trudged back to the Koban.
By this time, word had gotten around that the fat policeman had “caught” a gaijin. 3 other policeman were mulling around, with bemused grins on their faces, engaging in pleasant chat. I automatically frowned in irritation, but quickly became aware of my facial expression, and banished any sign of a negative or unpleasant reaction from my face. I retook my seat.
“WE CAN NO SEE LICENSE.” Specks of spittle showered out from his face as he awkwardly spoke English. “WE MUST SEE YOU BIKE LICENSE, OR WE NO LET YOU RIDE.”
“Sure…. my license is at home. You can come with me.” I offered, as friendly as I could.
“NO! YOU DO NOT HAVE BIKE LICENSE!” he shouted.
“Well, I do, but it’s at home,” I continued lamely.
“NO! I RIDE YOUR SCOOTER! You ride in patrol car.”
“Hang on a second,” I said, pushing my luck. “Can I see YOUR bike license?”
I battled to keep my grin away from my face as I saw that I caught him out.
“License? fuck.” He said under his breath. He again scowled, and called out to the crowd of police. “Hey, who has a bike license?”
“I do,” A random cop stepped forward.
“Come on then. Pile him into the police car.” The fat policemen said to the other police.
I was promptly led outside, and seated in a policecar. It’s a very weird feeling to sit in a police car. It was a busy street, and people were walking either side of the police car. They looked in, to see agaijin sitting on the backseat. I saw them shaking their heads in shock, and whispering to each other “I wonder what he did?”. I turned red in embarrassment.
After a few moments, I noticed in my peripheral vision that a young boy had come up to the window, and was staring directly at me, with his mouth wide open. I gave him 5 seconds to go away, and when he didn’t, I suddenly turned and “pounced” on him from the other side of the glass, with my arms up either side of my face making claws. He jumped in shock and ran away. I giggled to myself, and then stopped abruptly when a policeman opened the door and sat down. I gave them directions to my house, and we were off.
About 15 minutes later, we arrive at my house. A patrolcar in the neighborhood is BIG news, and all of the old women who lived around the area came out of their abodes in a desperate gambit for the next few days of gossip material. When they saw me sitting in the back, a familiar neighborhood face, they erupted in talk.
“Look! It’s that gaijin!”
“I always knew he was trouble. He probably killed someone.”
“No! Surely not. He said hello to me once.”
“I never trusted him. Lucky for me.”
Their mindless babble continued, as my frustration and embarrassment mounted. This is your fault you know, a voice in my head reasoned. Shut up, another voice reasoned back.
I was told to go and get my international license. Then, to my surprise, they asked if they could come with me.
“Can I say no?” I asked, guardedly.
“You don’t have to say yes.” They said.
“Alright, then, no.” I replied.
They looked almost crestfallen, as if they were hoping for a chance to see an exotic gaijin habitat filled with trees, plants and rare animals.
They drove me back to the police station. My girlfriend was remarkably cool about the whole thing, whispering to me what was happening and giving me some clues and head-ups since I didn’t understand all the complicated rapid-fire Japanese.
We finally arrive at the station, and I’m led deep into the bowels (and I mean BOWELS) of the police station. They make me wait for an hour. I do my absolute best to continue being jovial, fun and friendly with the surrounding officers.
Finally, they place a handwritten piece of paper in front of me.
“SIGN.” They ordered.
I frowned at the paper in front of me. I recognised my name written down the bottom, with a line for my signature. The kanji was difficult and written in messy longhand. I didn’t understand any of it.
“Um, can I have a moment to read it please?” I asked, warmly.
They grunted, and left me with my girlfriend.
“What does it say?” I asked her frantically.
She scanned the paper. “Hm… it just says ‘I made a big, stupid mistake when I turned the wrong way. It was very stupid, I caused lots of problems for everyone, and I promise I will never, ever do this again. I have no excuse, I am embarrassed and feel very stupid.” She translated for me.
I choked on a laugh. “Is it safe to sign? I’m not committing myself to jail?” I asked, earnestly.
“It’s fine, you can sign.” she said with confidence.
I signed the document, and I was released about 30 minutes later. They allowed me to ride my scooter home after the incident. The whole thing took about 6 hours from start to finish - a very shitty way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
I’ll re-iterate - if you live in Japan, or if you visit Japan, do WHATEVER you can to avoid the police. Many of them will make your life difficult on purpose. In the best case scenario, they’ll take a lot of your time, and really piss you off.
If you have the misfortune to be caught, be apologetic, friendly, and as stable and solid in your personality as possible. They smell weakness like a dog smells steak, and they will mericileslly attack you if they find you’re a pushover.
In addition, apologising in Japan is a way to show that you’re aware that you disturbed the ’social order’, and you’re simply regretful of the problems you caused everyone; it’s not an admission of guilt like in America. It’s best to apologise frequently, strongly, unabashedly and keep as friendly a demeanor as possible.
I hope you never end up at the mercy of one of these Japanese police officers, but if you do, follow these guidelines, and you should make it through. Best of luck, and leave some comments if you have had any experiences with the Japanese police.




